Ants, Cockroaches, Spiders, Flies, Fleas etc......
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Ants are the perfect invaders, they are the master of expansion and can form colonies of many tens of thousands. Ants are good at finding sources of food. This means that you should put food leftovers into sealed containers. You should clean any spillages immediately plus take out any rubbish. Our registered technicians know which areas are likely to harbour the colonies and can exterminate nests directly or using specialist Ant bait or sprays that ants will carry back to the nest and feed to the colony.
Cockroaches are one of nature’s ultimate survivors. They have spent hundreds of millions of years adapting to environmental threats and hardships, making it without water for up to a week and food for a month. These tough insects are hard to track, and some people are allergic to them, experiencing migraines, itching, cramps, and respiratory problems. Ridding your home or business of cockroaches is crucial to preserving the health and safety of your family, customers, and employees. Our team of professionals has the knowledge and expertise to quickly and effectively safeguard your home or business against all types of pests.
WARNING : Remove all dead cockroaches after treatment as females may be carrying eggs that could still hatch.
Below you will find information about:
- Common cockroaches found in New Zealand, and where they are commonly found.
- Our treatment methods, including cost and pre-treatment preparation required.
- Health and safety precautions when we are carrying out treatment at your property.
- How to prevent future infestations.
Common Cockroaches Found in New Zealand
Cockroaches are flat beetle-like insects that are often associated with human habitation. The pest species are well adapted to live in and around homes and other buildings. Below we identify common cockroaches found in New Zealand, how they can be identified, and where they are usually found.
Roaches prefer warm, moist and sheltered areas close to food and water. They can, however, survive in extremes of heat (e.g. bakers ovens), extremes of cold (e.g. deep freezes), and withstand over 2000 times more radiation than human beings and still reproduce and adapt.
German Cockroaches
Brown in colour with two dark stripes running down the length of the thorax (body segment near the head). German Cockroaches are fast breeders having 3-4 generations per year, with maturity from egg to adult occurring in summer in as little as 40 days. They are often found in kitchens and sculleries in areas that are warm and moist such as behind ovens, fridges, freezers, and under sinks. If German Cockroaches are found in other areas of a house it usually indicates a large population.
American Cockroaches
American Cockroaches are up to 4 cm long and have a yellow band around the thorax. American Cockroaches mature much slower than German Cockroaches taking 6-12 months to mature from egg to adult. However, a female may lay as many as 50 egg cases containing as many as 25 eggs each so nymph numbers can rise rapidly in certain conditions. In warm climates of the North Island, American Cockroaches can live outdoors as well as indoors. They will live in drier conditions of wall cavities and sub-floors, but are often found around sewers and drains. If they move from sewers to food or food preparation areas they can spread disease organisms.
Gisborne Cockroaches
Commonly associated with people, and can be distinguished from the German Cockroach by its distinct pale stripes down either side. The native Bush Cockroach can be mistaken for the Gisborne Cockroach, but the Bush Cockroaches stripes are less distinct and it is much smaller than the adult Gisborne Cockroach.
Native Bush Cockroaches
Native Bush Cockroaches are small (up to 15 mm) cockroaches that live in leaf litter and dark, damp places in the bush and gardens. They are not usually regarded as pests but will wander indoors on occasions.
Prices
Prices start from $199+GST. Additional costs may apply depending on the type of treatment, the level of infestation, problem areas, and expected warranty. Every place is different – we may treat your property once and you may have very successful results, or you might need ongoing maintenance for heavy infestations. This is why inspection prior to treatment is so important. so please call to discuss levels of infestation and size of property.
If you have a heavy infestation, or require ongoing maintenance to prevent future infestations, consider our family package deals. We can also design a program specifically for your property to suit the severity of infestation on your and your neighbouring properties. Persistence, patience, and prevention is the key for effective, ongoing pest control.
Treatment and Treatment Methods
Baiting
We use bait as a spot treatment method in areas where cockroaches have been seen, particularly when treating for German Cockroaches.
Residual Spray Treatment
We spray a residual spray treatment comprised of insecticide and insect growth regulators into cracks and crevices. This treatment penetrates into the nooks and crannies where cockroaches hide, around and behind ovens, washers, fridges, freezers, and cupboards.
Monitoring
Ongoing monitoring will give early indication and control of any re-infestation. Because the baits do not contain a toxin and are certified organic, they can safely be used in sensitive areas such as kitchens, pantries, and other areas where food is handled or stored.
Treatment Health & Safety Precautions
Our chosen treatment methods are safe to use, however, there are precautions you must take during treatment to ensure your and your family’s health and safety.
Interior Spray Treatments
The premise will need to be vacated during treatment, and for a ‘stand down’ period of a minimum of 3-hours before returning to the premises.
Pre-treatment preparation is required for interior spray treatments which includes:
- Washing down surfaces to remove dust and dirt before we treat. Also, if the areas to be treated are dusty or greasy it is good practice to clean these down first to prevent runs and ensure the best effectiveness of treatment.
- Removing clutter from the area(s) to be treated.
- Removing all pets from the premises (excluding fish tanks, however, these do need to be covered and the pump turned off).
- Pulling furniture away from walls.
- Covering any food, utensils, food preparation surfaces, toys, bedding, and any other items which are within the treatment area(s) to avoid over-spray from settling on unwanted surfaces.
Interior Bait Treatments
No pre-treatment preparation is required when only a bait treatment method is required. Baits will be laid discreetly as gel spots or liquid in bait stations around the property where ant trails are found. Bait treatments also do not require vacation of the property during treatment, nor a ‘stand down’ period to return to the property following treatment.
Prevention
To prevent future infestations:
- Eliminate food and water sources.
- Clean up at the end of the day – put all food in sealed containers, fridge, or freezers, and remove garbage in sealed bags.
- Treatment of a cockroach infestation can be difficult because the eggs and egg cases are often laid in difficult to treat cracks and crevices. Egg cases also provide protection from insecticides. Therefore, it is important that treatment is maintained for at least three months after you stop seeing cockroaches. With persistence and patience you can get rid of cockroaches and keep them away.
- Fill in cracks and crevices that give cockroaches dark, moist places to hide during the day.
Spiders
Spiders have a wide range of environmental preferences, making them hard to avoid at your home or business. Some species prefer moisture and make their homes in crawl spaces, basements, and other spaces with a water source. Other spiders like the dry, warm environments found in your attic, room corners, and subfloor air vents. NZ is home to over 1500 species of spiders, many of which are harmless but a few are harmful to humans and pets. Let our team of pets control experts handle your spider problems to keep your family and employees safe from poisonous bites. Reactions to spider bites can range from a little redness and swelling to severe neurological reactions, paralysis, and even death in cases of such spiders as the Whitetail and the Funnell Web spider.
Spider bites involving venom usually causes pain prior to inflammation. If there appear to be two puncture wounds at a bite site this may indicate a spider is the culprit; spiders use two fangs to bite and inject their venom.
Spiders are generally a beneficial pest because they prey on other insects, but many people have arachnophobia (fear of spiders), and want them removed from the home. Spiders are easy to differentiate from other pests because they have eight legs. There are many people with a fear of spiders. Nearly all spiders produce venom but there are few spiders in New Zealand that can cause harm to humans. They include the white tail spider, the Australian Redback and the native katipo.
Many spiders produce webs and webbing that can be unsightly around the eaves and gutters of houses or on fences and furniture.HEALTH AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
OUR TREATMENT METHODS ARE SAFE TO USE, AS WE FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTION OF PRODUCTS BEING APPLIED, RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURES.
- IF INTERIOR RESIDUAL BARRIER SPRAY TREATMENT IS BEING USED YOU WILL NEED TO VACATED THE PROPERTY FOR A MINIMUM OF THREE HOURS.
- REMOVE CLUTTER FROM AREA TO BE TREATED.
- REMOVE PETS BEFORE TREATMENT.
- COVER FISH TANKS AND TURN OFF PUMP.
- COVER ANY ITEMS SUCH AS FOOD AND UTENSILS, FOOD PREP SURFACE, TOYS, BEDDING AND ANY OTHER ITEMS NECESSARY TO PREVENT OVER SPRAY FROM SETTLING ON UNWANTED SURFACES.
- PULL FURNITURE AWAY FROM WALLS.
COST:
Starting from $199+GST. Additional cost depending on type of treatment, the level of infestation, problem areas and expected warranty, we can also wash and remove cobwebs, Every place is different we may treat your property once and you may have a very successful results or you might need ongoing maintenance for heavy infestation so please call to discuss levels of infestation and size of property.
For heavy infestations more than one treatment may be required have a look at our family package deals for ongoing maintenance or we can design a programme to suit the severity of infestation on yours and your neighbouring properties. Persistence and patience is the key for effective pest control.
PREP AREA:
For best results wash down surfaces to remove dust and dirt before spraying. If the areas to be treated are dusty or greasy it is good practise to clean these down first to prevent runs and for the best effect of the treatment.
COMMON SPIDERS:
Red Back Spider
The bite of the Australian Redback spider is very painful and in very rare cases can be fatal if antivenom is not available. The Redback is becoming more common in many parts of New Zealand. However, it has been over 40 years since a Redback spider has caused a death in its native Australia. Only the bite and of a female is toxic. Size 1 cm in length.
White Tail Spider
White tail spiders have been implicated in cases of ulceration or necrosis following spider bites. White Tails are active hunters, preying upon other types of spiders, and may be found roaming inside houses, especially in warmer weather.
White Tail Spiders are slender looking, 1-2 cm in length, typically greyish or sometimes brownish in colour with orange to brown banded legs and usually with a distinct cream-white marking on the tip of the tail. Males and juveniles may have additional white spots on either side of the abdomen.
The White Tail spider often hides in clothing and shoes, especially if they have been left lying on the floor. As White Tails eat many other kinds of spiders one sign that White Tail spiders are sharing your house is that there are few cobwebs and there are no other spiders to be found.
Our Treatment Methods:
Residual insecticide– spray treatment to Interior and exterior walls, window frames, door frames, lights, around dryers, washer, vents, pergolas, Gutters and downpipes, cracks and crevices, exterior furniture, fence etc. We will be treating areas where spiders come inside. Also spray in corners and anywhere the spiders may be making webs.
Insecticide Dusts-may be added to your spider treatment program. Typical areas of dusting would be in attics, wall voids and under your baseboards.
Aerosols spray treatment -with a crack and crevice tip. Typical areas are under baseboards, around door frames and in corners.
Spider Traps– Placing out traps will also catch spiders.
Tip:
Clean Up– Remove sources of spider infestations, like firewood piles and clutter in the yard. Get rid of cobwebs during cleaning. Cobweb duster and Web Out can be used to help eliminate cobwebs. Getting rid of their webs will eliminate their ability to gather their food.
We can also exterminate Wasps, Bed Bugs and other stinging and biting insects. Some wasps are aggressive species and can sting when threatened. Unlike honey bees, wasps often are capable of stinging multiple times.
FLIES
The First step in House fly control is exclusion and sanitation. After these measures, you can use insecticides that come in residual forms, aerosols, fogging materials, and baiting forms. Fly traps have long been a favorite. There are many forms of fly traps, from disposable fly traps to electronic fly light traps with replaceable UV light bulbs and glue boards.HEALTH AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:OUR TREATMENT METHODS ARE SAFE TO USE, AS WE FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTION OF PRODUCTS BEING APPLIED, RECOMMENDED BY MANUFACTURES.
- IF INTERIOR RESIDUAL BARRIER SPRAY TREATMENT IS BEING USED YOU WILL NEED TO VACATED THE PROPERTY FOR A MINIMUM OF THREE HOURS.
- REMOVE CLUTTER FROM AREA TO BE TREATED.
- REMOVE PETS,COVER FISH TANKS AND TURN OFF PUMP.
- COVER ANY ITEMS SUCH AS FOOD AND UTENSILS, FOOD PREP SURFACE, TOYS, BEDDING AND ANY OTHER ITEMS NECESSARY TO PREVENT OVER SPRAY FROM SETTLING ON UNWANTED SURFACES.
- PULL FURNITURE AWAY FROM WALLS.
COST:
Starting from $159+GST. Additional cost depending on type of treatment, the level of infestation, problem areas, expected warranty and type of flying insect control required. Every place is different we may treat your property once and you may have a very successful results or you might need ongoing maintenance for heavy infestation so please call to discuss levels of infestation and size of property.
For heavy infestations more than one treatment may be required have a look at our family package deals for ongoing maintenance or we can design a programme to suit the severity of infestation on yours and your neighboring properties. Persistence and patience is the key for effective pest control.
PREP AREA:
For best results, wash or wipe down surfaces to remove dust and dirt before we treat. If the areas to be treated are dusty or greasy it is good practice to clean these down first to prevent runs and for the best effect of the treatment.
COMMON FLYING INSECT PESTS IN NEW ZEALAND:
The common House fly- is medium size pest all over the world. The adult has the fourth wing vein sharply angled and four lengthwise dark stripes on the top of the thorax. Its face has two velvety stripes which are silver above and gold below. The female fly has a much wider space between the eyes than the male.
Blow Flies- are found worldwide, occurring nearly every place inhabited by people. The name blowfly comes from the bloated condition of the rotting animal carcasses that their larvae, known as maggots, infest. Blow flies are one of the most common flies found around dead animals.These flies are common in populated areas and are often found near meat-processing plants, garbage dumps and slaughterhouses.
Fruit flies- The most common species encountered in homes and other structures are the D.melanogaster. Fruit flies are also identified as pomace flies or vinegar flies. These pests can be found throughout the world, in homes, food processing plants, warehouses, grocery stores, wineries, restaurants and other structures.
Cluster flies- are dull black flies that in autumn cluster together in large numbers in dark dry places like attics to survive winter. Cluster flies are medium to large (8-15mm) ‘dopey’ flies, with a dark gray to black non-metallic abdomen. The larvae of the fly feeds on earthworms in grass pasture or lawn areas, then in late autumn and early winter the adult flies will move into homes and other buildings to hibernate over winter.
OUR TREATMENT METHODS FOR THE DIFFERENT FLIES ARE AS FOLLOWS:
COMMON HOUSE FLY
Exclusion and Sanitation:
- Sanitation is the first measure of defense, even though there are various traps and sprays that are used to kill flies, it is necessary to eliminate the source in order to eliminate them.
- Whenever possible, food and materials on which the flies can lay their eggs must be removed or destroyed, which will isolate the egg-laying adult. Killing adult flies will reduce infestation, but elimination of breeding areas is necessary for good House Fly control management.
- Garbage cans and dumpsters should have tight-fitting lids and be cleaned regularly.
- Drainage will often aid control, getting rid of extra moisture.
- Openings of buildings should be tightly screened with screen.
INSPECTING AREAS:
Inside:
Trash cans, dirty diapers, rotten foods, etc are possible breeding areas for inspecting House Fly activity.
Outside-breeding sites:
House Flies may be found feeding and breeding in fresh manure, rotting fruits and vegetables, garbage, damp garbage, and decaying organic materials that are located outside of the structure.
Most of the time, when we find house flies inside, it is because they are coming inside the structures. Check cracks around windows, doors and vents as possible entry points. It is crucial to find out where the breeding sources are located and how they are entering the buildings. Rural areas where farms are present may be more problematic for the higher number of breeding sites than areas in an urban setting. In residential areas, pet manure, which is not picked up regularly, can be a breeding source for house flies.
Treatment
Residual Insecticide Spray Treatment – House flies rest on sunny surfaces in the daytime, and has a tendency to come inside or under eaves at night. These areas where the flies are resting can be sprayed with residual or contact insecticides. The flies rest on the sprayed surface and pick up enough insecticide to kill them.
Pyrethrin Insecticide Aerosols-For immediate results, automatic dispenser with pyrethrins in an aerosol form and space spray.Pyrethrins work quickly but give no lasting residual. These aerosols can be used as a quick kill insecticide, reducing populations of flying insects for short term results.
Fogging Insecticides – For large commercial buildings/warehouses & factories.
Fly Light Traps -These electronic fly light traps are very efficient and functional to be used inside only They are very popular in restaurants and commercial buildings.
Fly Baits – Insecticide granule fly can be used to aid in house-fly control. These baits should maybe distributed or sprayed on surfaces and along walls, window sills or other areas where flies congregate inside buildings, and in areas outside where flies congregate. As with all fly control, sanitation is extremely critical when using fly bait. Remove trash and other breeding sources, so the Fly bait will be there only feeding source.
BLOW FLIES
Eggs are usually laid on meat or dead animals. Some blow fly species, such as the screw worm fly, lay their eggs on living animals.
Most of these flies found indoors originate from an outside source because of their breeding preferences. Garbage cans are a huge source for blow flies. Single cans have produced more than 30,0000 flies in a week. If there are a large number of blow flies inside, it most likely are a sign of a dead rodent or bird somewhere in the structure. Finding the source of the animal or bird is often difficult because it has been dead several weeks by the time the flies appear.
If a dead animal odor is present, the odor may help narrow the search area. Look for signs of dead rodents or birds that may have been living in walls or crawl spaces, or even living in lower cabinets and under major appliances. Fly larvae will crawl along a wall until they encounter a corner where they then pupate. Numerous pupae in a corner indicate the breeding source is near. If the flies are found inside the light covers in the ceiling, it means the flies emerged either in the ceiling or from the wall. The breeding source might be either in the ceiling or a wall.
Outdoors, inspect the area for dead animals; any nearby dumpsters or other garbage containers should be inspected.
Using Insecticides, Fly Baits and Fly Traps
- Blow Flies do not always require chemical control. However, if necessary, spray entry points on building or fly resting areas with residual liquid insecticides. In order to maintain a residual control, we recommend treatment once a month.
- Fly Glue Traps may be used to trap and kill Blow Flies.
- Fly Baits
- A pyrethrum aerosol will provide a contact kill for immediate relief.
- Fruit Flies
Exclusion & Sanitation
- The first step in order to get rid of Fruit Flies in the kitchen or elsewhere is to have proper sanitation. It is critical to eliminate any breeding sources.
- Clean garbage cans and dumpsters. They should have tight lids.
- Get rid of any extra moisture with proper drainage.
- Use screens on building openings.
- Re-grout tiles in bathrooms and kitchens; this will prevent any water leakage in the walls and possible fruit fly breeding sources.
Inspection
We will, first for fruit fly sources in areas where vegetables or fruits are stored outside refrigeration. Also look for fruit fly sources in garbage cans, under appliances, and recycling bins. When searching for fruit fly breeding sources, remember that the larva can only survive in decaying organic matter that is moist. All stages of fruit fly infestations depend on organic debris to complete the complete fruit fly cycle. Whenever possible, food and materials on which fruit flies can lay their eggs must be removed. Killing adult fruit flies will reduce infestation, but elimination of fruit fly breeding areas is necessary for good management. Fruit Flies are not only the only small fly that you may see in your kitchen area. If you see a small type of fly or gnat type of fly, it may not be coming from the drains. They could be coming from various sources like rotten fruit, garbage, or other damp organic matter.
Below is a list of possible breeding sources for various small flies found in kitchen areas and other breeding areas. If you understand the various breeding sources, you can manage these flies with better success.
Breeding Sources of Drain Flies, Fruit Flies, Phorid Flies and Sphaerocerid Flies.
Drain Flies– can breed in sewers, drains, septic tanks and contaminated soil from sewage.
Fruit flies– You can find them flying around fruits and vegetables, both fresh and rotten. They can also be found around any moist organic matter and garbage.
Phorid Flies– are also found in contaminated soils from garbage, in drains and garbage. They can be found in human cadavers.
Sphaerocerid Flies- These small flies breed in rotting fruits and vegetables, garbage, and drains.
TREATMENT
Fruit Fly Traps-They are ready to use traps with special attractants to lure the Fruit Flies into the traps and get caught.
Fruit Fly Control – Aerosols-Automatic aerosol dispenser with Pyrethrin used as a space spray can be used as a quick kill, reducing populations of flying insects. Which normally last up to thirty days.
Aerosol- can be sprayed around possible breeding sources such as, around plants, floor mats, under appliances and into drains.
Drain Treatments – You may find fruit fly larvae feeding on the sides of your drains. In order to investigate this, put some clear tape over the top of a dry drain with some holes in it for air flow. If the flies get stuck on the tape, you have located a source. In order to break up organic buildup and eliminate any possible breeding sources, we will use drain a treatment.
Residual Insecticides-Spray surfaces where fruit flies would land and rest, sprayed once a month. This would also treat other types of flies.